Here are some fun little restaurants (mostly in the Old Town) that are not only delicious but easy on the wallet…
La Rossettisserie (Just off Place Rossetti near the Cathedral) Delectable selection of spit-roasted meats, with potato or ratatouille, and comes with an excellent salad starter for just 14.50€. It’s sooo good! They serve lunch and dinner; reservations recommended, and specify if you want a private table or the long communal table where you can make new friends.
Chez Palmyre may be the oldest, but it’s my newest favorite. Run by a mother/daughter team since 1926, it changed hands a year-and-a-half ago when the 93-year-old mother died and the 77-year-old daughter decided to finally retire. Now it’s Philippe that runs the show, keeping the country store ambiance and friendly prices, while chef Vincent elevates grandma’s cuisine to something wonderful. Three courses, lunch or dinner, 15€. Wow. The menu changes daily, there’s no website. The restaurant is tiny, so call well in advance 04 93 85 72 32. 5 rue Droite
Le 22 Septembre is a hidden secret, tucked away on the first side street as you walk up rue Rossetti (just past Fenocchio ice cream) and has been quietly serving delicious Normand cuisine at great prices for 20 years. Named after a sad French song by Georges Brassens, the ambience in this tiny restaurant leaves a lot to be desired, but that is soon forgotten once the food arrives. Try the salad with almond-crusted goat cheese, or with Camembert fritters… even the accompaniments are superb. English menu available, 3-course set menu for 15€ and 18€, and open only for dinner.
The bar at the Boscolo Hotel Exedra For a lovely and light cocktail-style dinner, the elegant Exedra hotel offers a true Italian aperitivo (Italian-style happy hour), where for 12€ you get a drink and can help yourself to the delicious Italian buffet two times. Chic… mais pas cher! Blvd Victor Hugo.
Effervescence is a hip Champagne and tapas bar hidden up a side road in the Old Town where you can sip the bubbly and graze on all manner of delectable surprises. My favorite is Mickael’s incredible 19€ ‘formula’ with includes 2 glasses of Cava (Spanish sparkling wine), 3 appetizer verrines (a layered appetizer served in a glass), then 12 pieces of sushi, and to finish, 3 dessert verrines.
Restaurant du Gesu (rue du Jesus and rue Droite) Tucked into a tiny place in front of a church (Gesu is Jesus in Nissart), this is a loud and fun Nice classic with good, simple local fare at bargain prices. Cash only, no website, no reservations. If you can’t get in here, try Acchiardo just down the street on rue Droite, another crowded noisy family-owned eatery cut from the same, very local, cloth (…but Acchiardo takes reservations: 04 93 85 51 16). Both open for lunch and dinner.
Chez Pipo (in the Port) All locals agree that for the best socca, it’s Chez Pipo, hands down. Come graze on socca, pissaladiére, tapenades… you will leave full and satisfied for around 10€ a head. Super popular, and they don’t take reservations, so get there early, especially for dinner. 13 rue Bavastro.
Lou Pilha Leva is the place for mussels, which they serve in a wonderful saffron sauce and with french fries for just 8€. You order your food at the counter (ask for ‘moules frites’) then take a seat at the communal outside tables until they yell for you to come and get it. Place Centrale, just down from the Cathedral tram stop.
The best pizza in Nice is at Les Amoureux in the Port, a little hole-in-the-wall that will transport you straight to Italy. Their pizzas are… Bellissimo! 7 rue Fodéré, behind the church, reserve early as the place is tiny and always packed: 04 93 07 59 73
The best to-go Pizza is from Pizza Pili. From their classic pizzas to their most creative, they have the best to-go pizza in Nice for just 6.50€. They provide a couple of street-side tables, but for the best ambiance, take it to the beach for a sunset pizza with a bottle of rosé. Place Centrale, just down from the Cathedral tram stop, or at the corner of rue du Jesus and rue Benoit Bunico.
LUNCH
Chez Theresa Socca This little lunch-time socca stand in the middle of the Cours Saleya market is practically an institution. For just 6.50€ the no-nonsense Theresa will serve you up a slice of socca, a slice of pissaladiére, and a glass of rose, and you will be set for the afternoon. Closes when the market closes at 1pm, and the line can be long, so get there early. Click here to see the socca being delivered.
Café Marché is tucked away on a side street just steps from its namesake, the open air market Cours Saleya. With a country motif and fresh herbs adorning the tables, you know your in for something fresh, delicious and comforting. The menu changes daily but always features a homemade soup, a burger du jour, and a tartare du jour… yum! They also do a Sunday Brunch…
Bakery Lunch Several bakeries have little tables out front, but Au Ble d’Azur is one of the best. On rue du Marche just off the Palais du Justice, is not only one of the Old Town’s best bakeries, but they also serve beverages and put little tables outside so you can enjoy your breakfast or lunch. For around 7-8€ you can lunch on a savory baked tart, followed by a delectable French pastry for dessert, a beverage and then a coffee. Another excellent bakery with bev’s and tables, is Multari on Jean-Jaures near Place Garibaldi, which additionally offers sandwiches and salads.
Emilie’s Cookies was started by two local girls that spent a few years in New York, then came back to bring the delights of the US to Nice. They make awesome bagels, and for just 5.50 you can treat yourself to a salmon-avo-cream cheese dream in a cool coffee-house atmosphere. There’s one at the Port, rue Albertini, and Vieux Nice at Palais de Justice. …Oh, and don’t forget dessert!
La Banane, just off Cours Saleya, features the local specialty pain bangat (Nissart for ‘bathed bread’: bathed in olive oil!). It’s a Niçoise-style tuna sandwich, popular since the peasant days. Eat in or take-away. 6 rue de la Poissonnerie
I hate to promote a chain, but Subway has a great deal: 6 of their subs are just 2.90€. There 5 Subways in Nice including one right across from the Cathedral tram stop.
Late-night munchies: Grigri right next to the Cathedral. Paninis and chocolate cake until the wee hours.
See Related Pages:
- Nice’s Best Medium-priced restaurants
- Local Nice Specialties and where to try them
- Food Finds in the Old Town
- Where to Eat on Sunday and Monday in Nice when most restaurants are closed
Here’s the map: click on the pointers to see what’s where…
Photo credits: Place du Gesu by Nataraja, and Boulanger by Thomas Berg both licensed under Creative Commons.
- Back up to main EAT page