I Found Trader Joe’s in France!

After over 25 years in France, one of the things I still miss from the States is Trader Joe’s.  So imagine my delight when I recently stumbled upon a whole stash of TJ’s hiding right in plain sight in the middle of Nice!

Branded grocery bag with Trader Joe's item found at Aldi

Click photo to enlarge

Bizarrely, the discount chain Aldi stocks a bunch of Trader Joe’s products, and while some (like cranberries) are always there, others cycle in and out (like Brookies …which are not in the photo because I ate them…)   Click the link above for the current list and keep clicking ‘+ Voir Plus’ at the bottom to see more.

Turns out that way back in 1979, ‘Joe’ Coulombe sold Trader Joe’s to one of two feuding brothers that co-founded the Aldi German discount grocery chain years before.  Flash forward, and now the bare-bones budget Aldi supermarkets are all over France although they are operated completely separately from Trader Joe’s in America (…and the Aldi stores in America are owned by the other feuding brother, so no contact at all with Trader Joe’s). But since French Aldi and Trader Joe’s share a parent company, French Aldi has been quietly stocking some of their awesome products for years, and I had no idea.

…You’re welcome!

Could Picard actually be Trader Jacques?

On the flip-side, eagle-eyed expats have noticed a striking similarity between Trader Joe’s made-in-France frozen food aisle, and the uniquely French Picard frozen food boutiques… to the point that there are multiple reels on TikTok and Instagram along the lines of ‘Discover Picard: the Trader Joe’s of France.’

It could be true: Trader Joe’s buys direct from manufacturers then rebrands and sells at a discount under their own Trader Joe’s label, a deal that cuts out the middleman but also contractually swears both parties to secrecy.  So I have no proof, but all I can say is that American expats should definitely check out Picard Surgeles for those nights when cooking is just not in the cards.

There are several Picard stores in Nice but you may never have noticed them because from the outside they resemble a sterile white medical lab (compounded by the word Surgeles, which means ‘frozen’ but implies ‘Surgical’ to English-speakers, lol), but inside is an icy Trader Joe’s-adjacent wonderland with row after row of top-loading chest freezers full of quality and imaginative (if expensive) frozen delights.

Insider tips:

  • Picard stocks actual bags of ice cubes year-around if you are having a party
  • And they famously deliver without breaking the cold-chain!

See Related Page: French Grocery Store Tips

Photo credit: Best of Nice… taken on my vintage TJ’s tote bag 

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Illegal Wine and Forbidden Cheese

Poster for Beaujolais Nouveau celebrationThis Thursday, being the third Thursday in November, is the official release date and festivities for this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau: it’s the first taste of this year’s grape harvest, before the rest of the 2025 vintage is put away to be aged.

This inexpensive too-young red wine is nothing to crow about: it is brash and fruity, and served chilled to mask its lack of age… so why is its release celebrated  around the world?  Basically because of a 1951 French law meant to regulate the minimum fermentation time and tamp down public drunkenness… which completely backfired and ended up increasing the excitement for this not-great new wine, ultimately transforming it into a world-wide phenomenon.

A bottle of Georges Du Boeuf Beaujolais-Villages NouveauI was surprised to learn that Japan is the largest importer of Beaujolais Nouveau, followed by Germany, and then America, where Georges Duboeuf imports over 2 million colorfully labeled bottles each year just in time for Thanksgiving.  (…Until the Trump Tariffs that is…  good luck finding cheap Beaujolais Nouveau in the US this year!)

Having managed to get my hands on an advance bottle with the idea of doing an early review, I discovered something even more interesting: it turns out that drinking or selling this rather frivolous wine before the third Thursday in November is still illegal, with the threat of a 150€ fine!  …So I can tell you that it’s light and fruity… and the threat of legal prosecution definitely gives the wine a bit more heft!

It becomes legal to sell/drink after the stroke of midnight Wednesday, and by Thursday morning every wine shop in France will be offering samples, and by nighttime most bars will be toasting and celebrating…

Would you like a little illegal cheese to go with your illegal wine?   According to my local cheese shop, at one point the very possession of Reblochon cheese was proof of moral turpitude and was cause for arrest.

In medieval France, poor dairy farmers paid rich landowners grazing fees based on the milk yield. The landowners charged abusively high fees, so to recoup, some farmers would not do a complete milking; then once all the milk had been accounted for and tallied, they would then secretly milk the cows again. Supplemental milking produces a liquid that is almost all fat, so the resulting cheese (called Reblochon which literally means “re-milking”) was easily identifiable and had to be hidden! Possession of Reblochon cheese was proof of stealing from your landlord and could land you in jail, and it obviously couldn’t be sold, so it became a secret staple of the impoverished farmer’s family diet, which was mostly potatoes anyway.

Reblochon is no longer illegal in France, but it is illegal in the USA (!) due to not being pasteurized.  It is most famously used for Tartiflette, a hearty peasant dish baked with sliced potatoes, onions and bacon…  Try it in the Old Town at Le Cave du Fromager or  at any of the French outdoor Christmas Markets.   Or better yet make this easy, economical, and very filling gratin at home with this recipe by David Lebovich, which includes legal cheese substitutions if you are in the US…!

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The Garibaldi Crypte: Finally in English!

Crypt museum entranceYou would never suspect what is buried underneath Place Garibaldi… it’s a hidden museum, the Garibaldi Crypte…!

Most people walk right past it and never even notice since there is almost nothing above ground. Even most locals don’t know about it, or if they do, have never set foot inside; it was previously complicated to get in… accessible only by advance reservation for small guided tours, and only in French.

Well great news: the Garibaldi Crypte Museum is now open to the public, and now features brand new audio-guides in English!

The Garibaldi CryptWhile jack-hammering up Place Garibaldi for the tramway, the city discovered the ancient city walls just 10 centimeters below the sidewalk!  Place Garibaldi had been slapped over the ruins of the fortress walls guarding the entry to the old town and complete with notched turrets, a moat and drawbridge, and an aqueduct from the mountains.

Now you can see it for yourself at your leisure (no reservations or tours required), with everything explained by English audio-guides.  The Garibaldi Crypte Museum takes just 30 minutes to see and is really interesting.  Flat shoes are the only requirement since you will be walking on grates suspended above the Medieval ruins.

Entrance to the Gribaldi CryptTo find it, just go to Place Garibaldi and walk to the flat area to the left of the Monoprix: look for the free-standing elevator and sign, and that’s where you will find the 30 stairs… that will take you back 600 years!

New Hours: Open Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm; and Wednesdays and Fridays from 9am-1pm and 4-5pm.

Tickets including the audio-guide are 5€; or 3€ for seniors, students, and handicapped (access by elevator); and free for children under 18 (but no toddlers allowed for security reasons).

Buy your tickets at the entry (credit cards only) or online.  The Crypte Museum is unfortunately not included in the Nice Municipal Museum Pass, but it is included in the French Riviera Pass.

By the way, its actual name is Crypte Archéologique in case you want to Google it or look it up on Tripadvisor.

You will never look at Place Garibaldi the same way again!

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Post WWII Nice: Soldier’s Paradise

Last year Nice honored August 28, the 80th anniversary of the WWII Liberation of Nice with a week of parades, balls, expositions and fanfare.  This year not so much…

So what was happening 80 years ago from THIS year? In 1944 Nice liberated itself before the American forces even arrived, but one year later in 1945, the US Army saved Nice in a different way.

A few months after the Nazis fled the city, the US Army inaugurated Nice and Cannes as United States Riviera Recreational Areas (USRRA) offering GIs a week of R&R on the French Riviera.  By summer 1945 Nice was hosting up to 6,000 soldiers and WACs (Women’s Army Corps) each week. These dream vacations were entirely subsidized by the US Army and cost the troops just $2/day for an all-inclusive stay in a luxury hotel, including restaurants, bars, music, dancing, and shows; plus designated spots around town where they could clothes shop for a pittance, go to a private beach, play all kinds of sports, and take sight-seeing tours.  The only rules were a 1am curfew …and no salutes!

After this unforgettable week, many GIs returned home to America, or were redeployed to the on-going fighting in the Pacific.  And thanks to this jump-start, Nice’s tourist industry once again rose from the ashes.

You know what I like best about this map?  After highlighting all the fabulous things the soldiers could do… there was just one thing that was forbidden.  The old town is in red… and the legend says “Old Nice – Off Limits”!

Post WWII Nice R&R Map USRAAClick the map to enlarge.

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Photo credit: Thérèse Bonney, © The Regents of the University of California, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley. This work is made available under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license.

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Thomas Jefferson’s Favorite Wine

Thomas Jefferson painted portrait Before becoming America’s 3rd President, Thomas Jefferson visited Nice in 1787 when he was the US Ambassador to France.  His trip was focused on finding agricultural innovations that he could employ back in the US, and as such he toured the vineyards of Bellet.

He loved the wines but absolutely flipped for the wines of Chateau Bellet, calling them the best wines in the world.  From then on and throughout his Presidency, he had 100’s of bottles a year shipped from Chateau Bellet in Nice to his Monticello estate in Virginia.  In a letter from 1819, he wrote that the Bellet wines were still the best he’d ever tasted!

Maybe it’s because the Bellet wine region features two red grape varietals that exist only here: Braquet and Folle-Noir (which means crazy black!), and these must be the principle grapes in all AOC Bellet red or rosé wines.

Want a taste?  Here are 4 ways to sample Nice’s wine region:

Most Economical: Self-guided tour on the city-sponsored Nice Weekend Wine Shuttle! Every Saturday in June and September, and Fridays and Saturdays in July and August, catch the Vignobles de Bellet Navette Wine Shuttle which runs a continuous 80-minute circuit, starting up the street from the Magnan tram stop in Nice.  Each ride is the cost of a normal bus ticket, but since you are getting on and off, it makes the most sense to just get the bus/tram day pass for 7€.  Click the link above for all the details, schedule, tasting prices, and a suggested itinerary.

Mix some Sport with your Wine:  Two local companies offer English-language guided  group e-bike tours through the vines, punctuated with tours and tastings. eBike the Vineyard Tour offers a 5-6 hour trip  including a private Bellet vineyard tour, a wine tasting, and time to picnic amongst the vines.  Domaine de Fologar recommends Bikeandwine.fr.

Most Deluxe: Just book a private car and driver with Friend in France… They’ll make the reservations and liaise with the wineries, and you just taste and tour to your heart’s content …and fill up that trunk with your finds as you go!

Or just kick back and taste your way through the Bellet wines in some of the best wine bars in Nice!

Cheers!

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