The Garibaldi Crypte: Finally in English!

Crypt museum entranceYou would never suspect what is buried underneath Place Garibaldi… it’s a hidden museum, the Garibaldi Crypte…!

Most people walk right past it and never even notice since there is almost nothing above ground. Even most locals don’t know about it, or if they do, have never set foot inside; it was previously complicated to get in… accessible only by advance reservation for small guided tours, and only in French.

Well great news: the Garibaldi Crypte Museum is now open to the public, and now features brand new audio-guides in English!

The Garibaldi CryptWhile jack-hammering up Place Garibaldi for the tramway, the city discovered the ancient city walls just 10 centimeters below the sidewalk!  Place Garibaldi had been slapped over the ruins of the fortress walls guarding the entry to the old town and complete with notched turrets, a moat and drawbridge, and an aqueduct from the mountains.

Now you can see it for yourself at your leisure (no reservations or tours required), with everything explained by English audio-guides.  The Garibaldi Crypte Museum takes just 30 minutes to see and is really interesting.  Flat shoes are the only requirement since you will be walking on grates suspended above the Medieval ruins.

Entrance to the Gribaldi CryptTo find it, just go to Place Garibaldi and walk to the flat area to the left of the Monoprix: look for the free-standing elevator and sign, and that’s where you will find the 30 stairs… that will take you back 600 years!

New Hours: Open Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm; and Wednesdays and Fridays from 9am-1pm and 4-5pm.

Tickets including the audio-guide are 5€; or 3€ for seniors, students, and handicapped (access by elevator); and free for children under 18 (but no toddlers allowed for security reasons).

Buy your tickets at the entry (credit cards only) or online.  The Crypte Museum is unfortunately not included in the Nice Municipal Museum Pass, but it is included in the French Riviera Pass.

By the way, its actual name is Crypte Archéologique in case you want to Google it or look it up on Tripadvisor.

You will never look at Place Garibaldi the same way again!

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Halloween in Nice 2025

Flying bat on Halloween in NiceThey don’t put this in the guidebooks, but the bat is the ancient emblem of Nice’s dark side, and the web of winding alleys in the Old Town used to be known as the Babazouk or ‘Monster’s Lair’...  Halloween is the one night of the year when those menacing Medieval streets fill up with ghosts, monsters and goblins, and get even spookier!

Rocky Horror Picture Show lip-biting logoGet in the spirit on Thursday, October 30 with the pre-Halloween participatory screening of the campy cult Halloween classic The Rocky Horror Picture Show complete with all the trimmings (iykyk) and obviously costumes are encouraged.  It’s the story of a haunted castle on a stormy night with a mad scientist …and singing crossdressers… What could go wrong?  Before you know it you too will be dancing the Time Warp…   Starts at 8:30pm at Le Swing, a fun gay-friendly bar at 10 rue Defly, tram stop Garibaldi. Tickets start at 13€ and this will sell out.

On Halloween night take it a step further, and trance dance with zombies in an ancient slaughterhouse!   Le 109 is holding their annual Halloween techno-rave from 8:30pm until 2am (over 16 only).  It’s kind of pricey (30€) and not that easy to get to (Vauban tram stop, then a 10-minute walk through an abandoned industrial area) but it sells out every year and the defunct slaughterhouse might be the most authentically creepy Halloween party venue ever.  By the way, even the name of this converted art space, Le 109, is a play on its gory past that sounds like ‘new blood‘ in French…

If “techno-rave in a slaughterhouse” is a little edgier than you want to go, head instead to the Nice Port for a Frenchy Halloween-hits mixtape dance-party at the new OceaNice Congress Center.  Easy to get to (tram stop Port Lympia, or just walk around the point from the Old Town), and you can dance the night away to all your retro Halloween faves like Madonna, Michael Jackson, Queen, and more from 7pm-1am.   Cover charge 15€ in advance or 19€ last minute, and you must be over 16.

Halloween weekend, it’s a fright-fest at the Cinema Rialto including 9pm screenings of The Texas Chainsaw Massacre on Friday and The Evil Dead on Saturday, November 1st; both in English with subtitles in French, tram stop Alsace-Lorraine

And all Halloween afternoon/evening, the Belmondo Cinema (formerly Mercury) is throwing a Frission (‘Thrills and Chills”) Film Fest with scary movies but friendly ticket prices (6.50€ adults, 4€ for kids), free popcorn and candies at all showings, and make-up stands in the lobby for kids and adults.  Two of their 3 theaters will be running a Tim Burton marathon but they’re mostly dubbed in French… except for the final Sleepy Hollow at 8pm, in its original English version with subtitles in French.  …But the third (and smallest) screening screaming room is the place to be with back-to-back surprise horror flicks (16 years and over only) in English (with French subs) at 2:30pm, 4:30pm, 6:30pm and 8:30pm.  Advanced online ticket purchases advised.  Tram stop Garibaldi.

Or… just dress up and come down to Vieux Nice to creep around the Babazouk (if you dare!) where the spirits will be flowing (in the bars), and monsters will be lurking around every corner …Just watch out for bats!  Boo!

See related page: October Event Listings

Photo credit: Bat licensed under creative commons via Wikimedia

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Post WWII Nice: Soldier’s Paradise

Last year Nice honored August 28, the 80th anniversary of the WWII Liberation of Nice with a week of parades, balls, expositions and fanfare.  This year not so much…

So what was happening 80 years ago from THIS year? In 1944 Nice liberated itself before the American forces even arrived, but one year later in 1945, the US Army saved Nice in a different way.

A few months after the Nazis fled the city, the US Army inaugurated Nice and Cannes as United States Riviera Recreational Areas (USRRA) offering GIs a week of R&R on the French Riviera.  By summer 1945 Nice was hosting up to 6,000 soldiers and WACs (Women’s Army Corps) each week. These dream vacations were entirely subsidized by the US Army and cost the troops just $2/day for an all-inclusive stay in a luxury hotel, including restaurants, bars, music, dancing, and shows; plus designated spots around town where they could clothes shop for a pittance, go to a private beach, play all kinds of sports, and take sight-seeing tours.  The only rules were a 1am curfew …and no salutes!

After this unforgettable week, many GIs returned home to America, or were redeployed to the on-going fighting in the Pacific.  And thanks to this jump-start, Nice’s tourist industry once again rose from the ashes.

You know what I like best about this map?  After highlighting all the fabulous things the soldiers could do… there was just one thing that was forbidden.  The old town is in red… and the legend says “Old Nice – Off Limits”!

Post WWII Nice R&R Map USRAAClick the map to enlarge.

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Photo credit: Thérèse Bonney, © The Regents of the University of California, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley. This work is made available under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license.

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Thomas Jefferson’s Favorite Wine

Thomas Jefferson painted portrait Before becoming America’s 3rd President, Thomas Jefferson visited Nice in 1787 when he was the US Ambassador to France.  His trip was focused on finding agricultural innovations that he could employ back in the US, and as such he toured the vineyards of Bellet.

He loved the wines but absolutely flipped for the wines of Chateau Bellet, calling them the best wines in the world.  From then on and throughout his Presidency, he had 100’s of bottles a year shipped from Chateau Bellet in Nice to his Monticello estate in Virginia.  In a letter from 1819, he wrote that the Bellet wines were still the best he’d ever tasted!

Maybe it’s because the Bellet wine region features two red grape varietals that exist only here: Braquet and Folle-Noir (which means crazy black!), and these must be the principle grapes in all AOC Bellet red or rosé wines.

Want a taste?  Here are 4 ways to sample Nice’s wine region:

Most Economical: Self-guided tour on the city-sponsored Nice Weekend Wine Shuttle! Every Saturday in June and September, and Fridays and Saturdays in July and August, catch the Vignobles de Bellet Navette Wine Shuttle which runs a continuous 80-minute circuit, starting up the street from the Magnan tram stop in Nice.  Each ride is the cost of a normal bus ticket, but since you are getting on and off, it makes the most sense to just get the bus/tram day pass for 7€.  Click the link above for all the details, schedule, tasting prices, and a suggested itinerary.

Mix some Sport with your Wine:  Two local companies offer English-language guided  group e-bike tours through the vines, punctuated with tours and tastings. eBike the Vineyard Tour offers a 5-6 hour trip  including a private Bellet vineyard tour, a wine tasting, and time to picnic amongst the vines.  Domaine de Fologar recommends Bikeandwine.fr.

Most Deluxe: Just book a private car and driver with Friend in France… They’ll make the reservations and liaise with the wineries, and you just taste and tour to your heart’s content …and fill up that trunk with your finds as you go!

Or just kick back and taste your way through the Bellet wines in some of the best wine bars in Nice!

Cheers!

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A new Spark lights up the Old Town dining scene

The sparks behind Spark Live Fire

Spark Live Fire Kitchen is my new favorite restaurant in Nice: unique, creative, fun, and extremely welcoming and delicious.

The Concept: It’s all about fire: there is no stoveall cooking is done in a custom wood-burning oven, modelled on the ancient communal ovens of Pompeii, and only available in Naples.  The oven is used around the clock with the cooler daytime temperatures used for slow-cooking ribs, and baking their own bread and desserts, so Spark can only be open for dinner.

The Chef:  Michael Webster is a native of Calgary Canada whose travels led through Paris, Chengdu China (where he met his wife Aiqing and ran 4 restaurants), then Bangkok, back to Paris (cooking under a Michelin-starred chef), and finally to Nice, where he’s now doing his own thing, letting his far-flung influences spark his own culinary vision, especially with vegetables, which are his passion.  The last time I was there, a diner came up to the chef to say, “Wow, you just changed my concept of Brussel Sprouts!”

The Menu:  It’s subject to change on Michael’s whim, but a recent menu featured 10 vegetables (8-12€) including Maple Lime Butter Sweet Potato, Sichuan Cauliflower, Citrus Glazed Fennel with Burrata (and of course the famous Pancetta Brussel Sprouts); along with 4 succulent meat choices plus specials ranging from 12-25€ (the Sticky Ribs with Maple Bourbon Glaze are killer!)   The dishes come out one at a time to be shared, vegetables first, and I recommend sitting at the bar where you can watch it all happen.

The Welcome: Aiqing is the service side of the duo, and she couldn’t be more charming and bubbly.  She speaks English but not much French yet, so extra fun for expats, and her eyes light up when talking about the food, their shared vision, and the rocky road to make it a reality!

The restaurant is tiny, so call ahead for your reservation at +33 7 60 92 51 32 or reserve on their website www.sparklivefire.com.   Open for dinner Tues-Saturday, 3 rue Centrale just off Place Rossetti (around the corner from Fenocchio), and right across the street from the newest Old Nice jazz spot Bistrot Rossetti with early live jazz Wed-Sunday from 7pm-10pm, so make a night of it!  Tram stop Cathedrale

See related pages: Best Restaurants in Nice, Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Nice, and more for Foodies in Nice.

Photos: Best of Nice

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