The traditional “night off” for restaurants, it’s a challenge to find a good place to eat on Sunday and Monday… Here’s a list of favorite restaurants that are not only open on Sunday and/or Monday, but can be counted on for an excellent meal!
My number one pick for Sunday is:
La P’tite Cocotte Tucked up a tiny side street, they are well worth the effort to find: three delicious courses for just 20€ from their weekly changing menu that depends entirely on what’s in season and on Chef Cedric’s whim. They serve dinner only during the week but lunch on weekends as well. 10 rue Saint-Augustin, tram stop Cathédrale or Garibaldi, +33 4 97 08 48 61.
And my top picks for Monday:
Chez Palmyre was run by a mother/daughter team since 1926, but it changed hands 10 years ago when the 93-year-old mother died and the 77-year-old daughter decided to finally retire. Now it’s chef Vincent, who’s been coming here since he was a child, who elevates grandma’s cuisine to something wonderful. Three courses, lunch or dinner, 20€. The restaurant is tiny, so they do 2 seatings at dinner, 7pm and 9pm, and they’re always packed, so call well in advance +33 4 93 85 72 32. 5 rue Droite, tram stop Cathédrale.
…and best Monday lunch deal… Bistrot du Port is a local favorite with a view on the port, open for lunch and dinner on both days, but is especially good for Monday lunch, when you can get their bargain weekday deal that includes 2 courses (plat du jour plus starter or dessert), plus wine and coffee for just 15€. Reservations a must, especially to be seated on the terrace. 28 Quai Lunel, tram stop Port Lympia, +33 4 93 55 21 70.
Followed by other top Monday picks…
- Le Lavomatique, which opened in what used to be… my laundromat! They kept the funky blue industrial/laundromat decor, and created something truly original. Gregoire and Hugo, the brothers famous for the Bistro de Fromagier before they sold, have created a French-style tapas bar, where their creative takes on classic fare are meant to be shared. Excellent selection of wines that you won’t see elsewhere, all hand picked by Gregoire. Fun, hip, and always packed… it’s best to reserve. 11 rue Pont Vieux, tram stop Cathédrale, +33 4 93 55 54 18
- Chez Acchiardo is coming up on 100 years in the same family. Dine under photos of grandma and grandpa back in the day, in this noisy, crowded and fun eatery. The main courses are large and come with generous side dishes so you will leave full and happy. The stuffed veal dishes (Escalopes Dijonaise or Milanaise for around 19€… used to be 15€) are my favorites. Reservations a must. 38 Rue Droite, tram stop Cathédrale, +33 4 93 85 51 16
- La Rossettisserie For comfort food with a warm homey feel, this is the place, with a delectable selection of spit-roasted meats for 17.50€, served with a generous side dishes; and at lunch comes with a bonus of an excellent tomato salad starter. Reservations recommended, and specify if you want a private table or the long communal table where you can make new friends. 8 rue Mascoinat, tram stop Cathédrale, +33 4 93 76 18 80. Closed for lunch July/Aug.
Open both Sundays and Mondays:
- Chez Juliette on rue Rossetti, has an eclectically stylized décor with a creative-leaning menu, using a lot of savory/sweet combinations; I especially like their various duck preparations with sauces made from honey or cherries. It’s a little pricier and far more touristy than the others, but I love their kitschy boudoir interior and mosaic-tabled terrace. No website, reservations a must: +33 4 93 92 68 47. 1 rue Rossetti, just above the square, tram stop Cathédrale. Dinner only.
- Les Garcons, is a tiny place with hip industriel-chic decor and an very hip vibe. Dinner only with a 3-course set menu for 30€, or 2 courses for 25€
- Hidden away in a tiny square, Le P’tit Resto is worth searching out for their selection of Niçoise tapas with a modern twist, perfect for sharing. 2 Rue Place Vieille, tram stop Cathédrale, +33 9 72 83 41 58, closed Wednesday.
- Le Tire Bouchon serves “Frenchy-style” tapas for sharing; choose from their extensive list of ‘entrees‘ (which means ‘appetizers’ in French, not ‘main course’ like in America!) 19 rue de la Prefecture, tram stop Opera or Cathédrale.
- Le Banthai serves excellent homemade Thai cuisine with super-moderate prices: all main courses are only 12€. Their tiny street-side café location on one of Old Nice’s most colorful rues makes for a very sympa dining experience. One caveat: French are not used to spicy food, so as Thai food goes it might be milder than you expect, but just ask for the condiments and spice it up yourself. 29 rue Droite, +33 9 73 57 19 06. Tram stop Cathédrale.
- On rue de Collet, you’ll find a great deal-for-two. 100% Sushi has a 3-course menu-for-two for 29€ including miso or salad, then a 24-piece sushi platter to share, and finishing with 4 brochettes of chicken or salmon. 11 rue du Collet, tram stop Cathédrale.
- Panda Chine has a huge local Chinese following, which is all you need to know. Most mains are between 13-15€, and if they offer a Canard Laqué (Peking Duck) on the daily special, take it! 4 Rue de l’Abbaye, tram stop Opera.
- Peppino Cantinetta has a tiny but mighty selection of homemade Tuscan fare with very high quality and extremely reasonable prices. 8 rue Pont Vieux, tram stop Cathédrale.
For higher-end, I recommend:
- L’Ane Rouge a top-tier restaurant gastronomique with a great story, and is open both nights. This prestigious port restaurant originally belonged to Chagall’s stubborn red-headed mistress, whom he nicknamed the Red Donkey, hence the name. Intermittently Michelin-starred master chef Michel Devillers does great things here… Ask for their special seasonal menu, a fantastic 3-course menu for the bargain price of 27€ at lunch or dinner. 7 Quai des 2 Emmanuels right on the Nice Port, tram stop Port Lympia, +33 4 93 89 49 63.
- Cote Marais is another little gem with an almost cult following, that you would never find unless you were looking for it. With top-tier cuisine that rivals its Michelin-starred cousins, it is a little pricey but worth it. Serving dinner only, cash only, no website, reservations a must. 4 rue du Pontin +33 4 93 80 95 39.
- Café de Turin on Place Garibaldi is Nice’s oldest restaurant, serving up their oyster and fresh seafood platters under the ancient arches since 1908. A veritable institution, with top quality product in a turn of the century grand brasserie feel. Open every day, tram stop Garibaldi, +33 4 93 62 29 52.
A few streets bursting with choices…
Rue Bonaparte, between Place Garibaldi and the Port, is a pedestrian street with absolutely lined with restaurants and wine bars with hearty tapas offerings and local followings, so just stroll down this street and you can’t go wrong. Tram stop Garibaldi.
And of course you can always count on Cours Saleya, which despite its touristy slant, still has a few that are good enough to attract locals, and with the Brocante, Monday is the very best day of the week to lunch here.
- The excellent (if pricey) Le Safari
- The upscale La Cambuse
- La Storia for pasta
- Blast for rock-n-roll and cheeseburgers
- and La Voglia for bountiful Italian.
- What to do on Sundays in Nice
- Nice’s Best Medium-priced restaurants
- Cheap Eats in Nice
- Local Nice Specialties and where to try them
- Food Finds in the Old Town
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Photo credit: Cours Saleya by Miniwark, licensed under Creative Commons