Birthday Bash for the Promenade des Anglais

200 years ago, the wealthy British tourists that flocked here every winter, insisted on an upgrade of the potholed dirt road running along the beach, so they could stroll along the seaside without getting their finery soiled with dust and dirt.  The working-class Niçois didn’t really see the point, so the industrious English (Anglais) community just got to it and organized and financed the paving of what is now called the Promenade des Anglais (and now you know why!)

To celebrate the 200th anniversary of its inauguration in 1824, the Ville de Nice is throwing a birthday party of sorts, and you are invited.  All weekend, Saturday and Sunday, Aug 31-Sept 1, the Prom will be punctuated with fanciful animations, music and surprises; mostly centered around the Jardin Albert 1ere, but also all along the ‘English Walk’ including vintage photos under the pergolas.

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80 years ago: Nice Freed From Nazi Occupiers

WWII liberation of NiceLast June marked the 80th anniversary of D-Day: the storming of the beaches of Normandy. But that was just the start, as battles raged all summer, including the storming of Toulon/Var beaches on August 15th.  Town by town the Nazi occupiers were eradicated and villages liberated, each at tremendous cost.

But Nice… Nice was a different story.  The American Forces had their hands full fighting in the Var, and the enraged Nazi regime holding Nice was extracting increasingly brutal retribution.  In desperation, and sensing the Americans would not get here in time, on the early morning of August 28, 1944, a ragtag band of townsfolk risked all with a surprise coordinated uprising.  The guerilla fighting went on all day, many lost their lives, but against all odds, by the end of the day, the SS was fleeing …and Nice had liberated itself.  Click here for more on  WWII: How Nice Liberated Itself.

To mark this dramatic 80-year anniversary, the city is throwing a week-long series of free parties, conferences, parades and expositions.

Saturday Aug 24th: Giant free 40’s style big band retro dance ball, 6pm-midnight, Theatre de Verdure. The American tanks arrived in Nice two days later, and that elation is the theme of tonight’s American-style 40’s swing celebration. Costumes encouraged, food trucks on site.

Monday, Aug. 26th: Free outdoor cinema in front of the Gare du Sud (tramstop Liberation), showing the film La Bataille du Rail (in French), with festivities starting at 8pm.

Tuesday, Aug. 27th: 6pm in the port (2 Quai Entrecasteaux, tramstop Port Lympia) Pop up exposition Les Alpes-Maritimes Liberees followed by a street-fest with music by Glen Big Band Memories.

As night falls, walk around to the other side of the port to the the Monument aux Morts for a concert, story-telling, and musical reenactment of the liberation of Nice at 8:30pm, finishing at 10pm with a torchlit vigil.

Wednesday, Aug, 28th:  Retro Military Parade with 50 WWII era military vehicles from jeeps to tanks, classic cars, vintage costumes, and all accompanied by New Orleans Jazz Orchestra.   The parade starts in Saint Laurent du Var, rolls into Nice via the Prom (10:30ish?), then up Gambetta, past the train station, back down avenue Jean Medecin (11ish), finishing around 11:30am at Place Massena where they’ll be on display all afternoon.

5pm Place Garibaldi unveils an open-air photo exhibition of never-before-shown photos from the occupation and liberation of Nice.

6pm Fly-over of  vintage WWII aircraft!

6:30pm Official ceremony at the Monument aux Morts.

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Two Major Hotel Openings that are Quite a Surprise

Anti hotel banners in Old NiceIn medieval times, ancient Convent of the Visitation in Old Nice was an austere abode for pious nuns.  The nuns are long gone and the convent has been boarded up for decades, but nevertheless the locals fought tooth-and-nail to stop its transformation into a lavish 5-star hotel, fearing the introduction of an ostentatious luxury resort would forever alter the feel of the vieille ville.

After years of delays, The luxury 5-star Hotel du Couvent just opened, and what a surprise!  The sprawling complex is so understated and discrete that the entry is practically hidden!  The 88-room hotel is as remarkable for its fidelity to the history and architecture, as much as for its resistance to the typical trappings of many luxury hotels.

It feels like a convent, a spiritual place, an oasis, like a meditation, as if you discovered a secret garden where you instantly feel the history in your bones.

Guest room at Hotel du Couvent NiceIt’s rare to find a hotel with such a sense-of-place: the guestrooms are sober yet elegant, the spa evokes Roman baths, the terraced gardens beg to be strolled, the restaurants serve on antique linens and vintage glassware …and they grow their own herbs, just like the nuns used to do.

With its lack of sea-view and bells-and-whistles, this one-of-a-kind hotel will not be to everyone’s taste, which is what makes its restraint so laudable.  What an impressive addition to Old Nice!

But if bells-and-whistles are more your thing, another major hotel just opened in the Nice Port this month that basically is the polar opposite of Hotel du Couvent…

The reception area for Mama Shelter hotel in NiceMama Shelter Riquier!  Fun and affordable, playful and eccentric, and employing lots of state-of-the-art tech, this cutting-edge 4-star hotel is kind of a whirlwind.  With a décor that riffs wildly on Matisse, its 102 rooms are kitschy, irreverent and innovative, to the point of being over-stimulating.  It’s as if the hotel threw art, humor and cartoons into the cocktail blender to create a big, bold sensory experience that you won’t soon forget.

In fact, after a stay here, you’ll probably need a few days at Hotel du Couvent!

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Death of Artist Ben: Nice in Shock

Front page of the Nice-Matin announcing the death of Ben VautierUpdate:  The city held a huge memorial with the two caskets right in the middle of the Promenade du Paillon gardens (!) backed by a big screen with photos and memories.  Over 1400 people showed up to pay their respects, including a who’s who of the local art world.  Following the public tribute, a private ceremony was held before the cremation.

Few artists incarnate the absurdity and optimism of life as Ben, a true original that painted with his words.  A world-renown wordsmith with an unmistakable French grammar school scrawl, it was in Nice that he made his home, and where he left his biggest mark.

Ben’s pithy French sayings are posted at every tram stop in Nice, not to mention popping up in unexpected places like on wine bottles (La Jaja de Jou), restaurants (Bar des Oiseaux), hotel rooms (Windsor Art Hotel ‘Ben’ room, #65), and even crowning a public toilet (“I piss, therefore I am” just below the Opera tram stop).

He was instrumental in the birth of the modern art movement which defines Nice (L’Ecole de Nice), and his whimsical work is featured not only in museums, but he printed his platitudes on almost anything to create an ironic pairing, and his ramblings soon started showing up in trendy French-leaning boutiques world wide, and of course online.

Late last Monday night, Annie Vautier, Ben’s wife of 60 years and inseparable companion, suffered a massive stroke and died shortly thereafter Wednesday morning at 3am.  A few hours later, unable and unwilling to live without her, Ben wrote his final act, taking his own life at his home in Nice, to join his beloved Annie in eternity.  Ben Vautier was 88.

Read more here from The Guardian

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80 years ago today: the US Dropped Bombs on Nice!

B-24 bomberIn the spring of 1944, the situation in Nice was dire.  Nice was not only under German occupation, but after the townspeople frequently foiled the Gestapo’s efforts to ferret out hiding Jews, the SS had recently sent a new commandant, the brutal and sadistic Alois Brunner, who was now ruling Nice with an iron hand, and submitting the town to daily horrors.

Imagine the buildings along the Promenade painted in camouflage and the empty beaches lined with bunkers and bales of barbed wire.  Armaments built on top of the Chateau hill were ready to fire upon Old Nice at a moment’s notice.  The Hotel Excelsior on Ave Duranty near the train station was being used as Nazi torture headquarters, and by that point over 3000 Jews had been packed into freight trains in Nice and sent to their deaths.

At the same time, the Allies had started a bombing campaign targeting strategic military sites in occupied France, including supply depots and train lines sending supplies to the North, and had already bombed Toulon and Saint-Laurent-du-Var.

The morning of May 26, 1944, it was Nice’s turn.  Around 10am there was an ominous buzzing in the air, then over the next 20 minutes 4 waves of American B-24 bombers dropped their payload on the neighborhood of Saint Roch, just behind the Nice Port.

Map of Saint Roch neighborhood in NiceThere were 29 bombers in all, each carrying 5-6 tons of explosives.  The targets were a Saint Roch warehouse stocking metal (from the Jette de la Casino?) and the Saint Roch train station which sent the supplies to the North.  But the bombs were dropped from such a high altitude, especially with the resulting smoke, that precision was not possible and the bombs fell everywhere…

The catastrophic result:  an entire quarter destroyed: 384 people killed, 480 injured, and 600 buildings damaged or completely destroyed.

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